It's a Tuesday morning. I’m just finishing up teaching 4th period at the Prefectural Deaf school, here in Yamaguchi Prefecture. I was excited to get back to my g-chat. Suddenly, my supervisor is tugging me over to a building of the school that I had never been in. Not being able to understand what she was telling me in the hustle, all I can think about was not being able to talk to my friends. Just before being pulled into, what I would soon find out was the Kindergarten class, I recognize a few words: beans, devils, and more beans.
Forever more: screw friends, when there are Kindergarteners around!
Now, in retrospect, the only thing I have to be annoyed about is that I didn’t have my camera or cell phone on me! There were 5 tiny kindergarteners screaming/laughing, and throwing beans at 3 devil’s (3 of my high school students dressed up as devils).
I am adoring the cutest kids ever, trying to find clues to what is going on. On the blackboard are some artfully constructed letters, which translate in the American alphabet to: “Mamemasa”. Having realized that my supervisor was talking about beans, beans, and more beans, I connect the “Mame” part of the word, to what I already am familiar with: “Mameshiba!”
Check out this commercial (there are many many commercials featuring these adorable Mameshiba’s (bean dogs): HERE
About a minute after I get there, the devils are driven out of the classroom, no longer being able to withstand the bean-throwing. Five minutes later, during bean clean-up, the kindergarten teacher works to get their attention (which is not the simplest thing to do with 5 excited deaf children). She points through the window, to the foot of the mountain. Yes, this school sits at the base of a beautiful mountain! The 3 devils are seen retreating into the mountains! (I’m sure those 3 volunteer high school students would rather be running into the mountains than sitting in Japanese class).
This was so beautifully arranged. And I received all the explanation that I could hope for after I was escorted back to the teacher’s room. The next day, would be Setsubun.
February 3rd is Setsubun. Setsubun is the festival of bean throwing. “Mamemasa”, what was written at the front of the Kindergartener’s class, means that exactly: Bean throwing. Setsubun, the name of the holiday itself means the “division of seasons”.
February 3rd is considered the last day of winter here. Americans have “Groundhog Day,” but the celebration of Setsubun seems far more widespread to me.
In fact, up on the International space station, beans were thrown today. Well, M&M’s. Soichi Noguchi, the Japanese flight engineer was filmed throwing M&M’s, repeating the famous Setsubun phrase: “Oni wa soto, huku wa uchi”.
Ideally what happens in each Japanese household is: The father plays the role of a devil. The family throws beans at him chanting “Oni wa sota, huku wa uchi”, meaning “Devils out, Fortune in” until he runs away. While throwing beans at him, once he is just out of the house, one also throws beans back inside, over their shoulders. This if for the “fortune in” part of the chant.
After you expel the demon, you traditionally eat the dried soybeans—one soybean per year you have lived.
Here was my lunch today:
My bean packet only had 24 beans in it, and I’m 25! I was so sad, because I wanted my deserved luck. Seeing me count my beans, my supervisor skipped over with an extra pack, to make sure I had enough. So I borrowed a bean!
At the same moment, while I was stuck in stuck in this super rural school, over in the heart of the city, “Hadakabou” was going on in commemoration of Setsubun. This means that there were a bunch of men sauntering around Hofu with a lucky calf. Yes. A cow god, in fact. They made their way up to Tenmangu shrine …a shrine that I have talked about numerous times. There, occurring 3 times throughout the day were massive bean throwing events. Everyone there was in the running to win the calf-god. I was not there, but I didn’t want the cow anyways. Hehe.
photo source: http://www.kanko-hofu.gr.jp/topics/200902/tenmangu/setsubun/index.html
I’m sad that I missed the event, but I had English club. Next year, I will make sure to use my PTO and make my way to the festival.
I did hit the end of the festival after work, but it had almost completely died down (see below).
I know I know, this post just goes on and on! But one other famous thing to do during Setsubun is to Eat “makizushi” or uncut sushi rolls, while facing a certain direction. This year we needed to face southeast. You need to stand up and finish your sushi, staring southeast, without saying a word. If you speak one word during this time, you will have bad luck all year, and vice versa.
I bought the wrong sushi! But the convenience store on my way home from Tenmangu didn’t carry the right kind! As you can see, I bought more nuts too, so I could rain soybeans down on the roofs of my neighbors while calling “Oni was soto” and mess up my bedroom while calling “Huku wa uchi”.
Lets see how my luck goes this year. If the wind blows the way I want it, when the new school term starts again, I will be able to pick up more elementary and Kindergarten classes! And I will always have enough to do, without g-chat filling my time! Okay… now that I’m done with this post, back to g-chat. *Whew! J
P.S. I want to leave you with one alternative view of Setsubun, brought to you by a friend (Shimonoseki Alex) in the Prefecture.
“Setsubun: The Japanese festival wherein one of the teachers dress up as a scary demon and scare the shit out of the little kids who are supposed to throw soy beans at them while chanting "out with the Demon! In with Happiness!" though they instead just stand there and cry... and cry... and then hide behind the other teachers who are laughing their asses off. Priceless.”